Amalfi Coast Diary 2009
The following is a trip diary by Jann Smith ’71, who traveled to the Amalfi Coast in June 2009 as part of an international travel experience with the Wisconsin Alumni Association.
Absolutely gorgeous barely defines the Amalfi Coast. This UNESCO world heritage area is on a south coast tucked under the west side of Italy about 2 hours from Naples. Amalfi was the original Maritime Republic city, later joined by Pisa, Genoa, and Venice. Amalfi is also famous for its paper making industry. The entire coast is dotted with small towns nested in the steep hillsides, quaint harbors, and spectacular views.
Thursday, June 4
I arrived in Naples after an overnight flight via Chicago-Munich with my Wisconsin Alumni Association. Although Amalfi is only about 40 miles from Naples, it takes two hours to get there due to the winding roads through the Campania countryside and some pretty steep ones at that. We settled in at the Grand Hotel Excelsior which is perched on the hillside (literally) above the town of Amalfi. The hotel has three levels of balconies, many sitting areas, a big pool, outdoor dining, and awesome view. My room on the 6th floor had the best balcony in the hotel with a 180 degree view of the ocean and the Amalfi area.
Friday, June 5
We departed from the hotel to Ravello, which is up the hillside from Amalfi. Ravello is a very charming town that boasts the Villa Rufolo, the inspiration for Wagner’s opera “Parsifal”. The gardens were quite lovely and a night time summer concert series is hosted at the Villa. Then back down to Amalfi and an excellent lunch at a local restaurant that was up one of the many side streets. We were supposed to go by boat to Positano after lunch, but the very rough water at the dock there prevented the trip, so we all explored Amalfi for the remainder of the afternoon. Amalfi has an amazing cathedral dedicated to St Andrew; the lower crypt’s ceiling paintings are amazing and the cathedral itself is a hidden jewel.
Absolutely gorgeous barely defines the Amalfi Coast. This UNESCO world heritage area is on a south coast tucked under the west side of Italy about 2 hours from Naples. Amalfi was the original Maritime Republic city, later joined by Pisa, Genoa, and Venice. Amalfi is also famous for its paper making industry. The entire coast is dotted with small towns nested in the steep hillsides, quaint harbors, and spectacular views.
Thursday, June 4
I arrived in Naples after an overnight flight via Chicago-Munich with my Wisconsin Alumni Association. Although Amalfi is only about 40 miles from Naples, it takes two hours to get there due to the winding roads through the Campania countryside and some pretty steep ones at that. We settled in at the Grand Hotel Excelsior which is perched on the hillside (literally) above the town of Amalfi. The hotel has three levels of balconies, many sitting areas, a big pool, outdoor dining, and awesome view. My room on the 6th floor had the best balcony in the hotel with a 180 degree view of the ocean and the Amalfi area.
Friday, June 5
We departed from the hotel to Ravello, which is up the hillside from Amalfi. Ravello is a very charming town that boasts the Villa Rufolo, the inspiration for Wagner’s opera “Parsifal”. The gardens were quite lovely and a night time summer concert series is hosted at the Villa. Then back down to Amalfi and an excellent lunch at a local restaurant that was up one of the many side streets. We were supposed to go by boat to Positano after lunch, but the very rough water at the dock there prevented the trip, so we all explored Amalfi for the remainder of the afternoon. Amalfi has an amazing cathedral dedicated to St Andrew; the lower crypt’s ceiling paintings are amazing and the cathedral itself is a hidden jewel.
Saturday, June 6
We were off to Sorrento (west of Amalfi) and were treated to a demonstration of wood inlay for which the entire area is quite world renowned. Since most of Sorrento was destroyed by the Barbary pirates in 1558, a precious few blocks of the medieval center remain; narrow streets and many shops which delighted most of our travelers. A cliffside sea promenade was the highlight. Today was the 65th anniversary of D-Day. The return trip was via the west part of the Amalfi Coast drive and being in the front seat of the bus was a thrill a minute due to our big tour bus and local drivers and a narrow winding road. Several of our group attended the concert at Ravello in the evening and the rest of us walked up the hill from the hotel to the tiny village of Pogerola, where we had a communal feast at an Irish pub owned by an Italian who also does karaoke.
Sunday, June 7
We were off again to the UNESCO sites of Herculaneum and Pompei. These two sites were the main reason I came on this trip as my major was anthropology/archaeology and I figured this was my one chance to see both areas. The excavated area of Herculaneum is small as this town was destroyed by the volcano mud flow (harder to excavate) and much of it lies under the modern city. It has a very personal aura with rooms and houses and people overcome by the 79 AD Vesuvius eruption in ten minutes. Then we had lunch at a restaurant outside Pompei. The site of Pompei is huge and mostly excavated as the town was covered with ash. Both sites had that eerie feeling of being suspended in time and ordinary people’s efforts to escape disaster.
Monday, June 8
We took the ferry from Amalfi to the Isle of Capri; wonderful to be on the water. Upon arrival we transferred to our own private boat for a trip part way around the Isle. Our journey took us to the White Grotto where we could see the very aqua sea coral that beautifies the water of this region. The famous Blue Grotto is also here but it’s a lengthy visit and our grotto visits were just as good and less crowded. Back to the town of Capri and a bus ride up to Ana Capri. Most of us took the single chairlift ride up to the top of the mountain; the view was amazing. Back down the chairlift to Ana Capri for lunch at an outdoor restaurant. Then off for a tour of the gardens belonging to the former Krupp estate and now part of the city. We all took the funicular (yes, of the song fame) down to Capri and then the boat back to Amalfi. The boat stopped at Positano so we did get to see it from the sea.
Tuesday, June 9
Our tour bus took us the rest of the coastal drive east from Amalfi to Salerno (tour buses are only allowed to drive west-east). We stopped south of Salerno at a mozzarella cheese farm. This farm’s cheese is made from water buffaloes brought many centuries ago by the Estruscans. It takes 7 liters of milk to make one kilo of cheese. These critters have it made; a whirling bristle massage brush on a pole and a huge mud hole in the pasture, plus automated milkers for which the cows stand in line. The cheese was quite tangy and very tasty. Then off to the UNESCO site of Paestum, founded by the Greeks in the 7th century BC. The three temples were absolutely awesome and are well conserved except for the roofs. The site is in the middle of a grassy field and the original town walls can still be seen. Lunch at an on-site restaurant was excellent. We also stopped at the WWII site of the Allied landing at Salerno, now a popular beach.
Wednesday, June 10
Our rescheduled boat trip to Positano was great. Very nice to be on the water again. This town is absolutely in defiance of gravity as it is glued to a very steep hillside. It also has a cathedral of St Mary of the Assumption; beautiful ceilings. Most of the group went shopping but I hiked up the hill to the Church of St Catherine which was closed but worth the view. The boat ride back to Amalfi was quite enjoyable. We had a farewell reception and dinner at the hotel.
Thursday, June 11
We all departed Naples for Munich and subsequent flights to Chicago and elsewhere. There were several different university groups on this trip; each and everyone made it a wonderful experience.
We were off to Sorrento (west of Amalfi) and were treated to a demonstration of wood inlay for which the entire area is quite world renowned. Since most of Sorrento was destroyed by the Barbary pirates in 1558, a precious few blocks of the medieval center remain; narrow streets and many shops which delighted most of our travelers. A cliffside sea promenade was the highlight. Today was the 65th anniversary of D-Day. The return trip was via the west part of the Amalfi Coast drive and being in the front seat of the bus was a thrill a minute due to our big tour bus and local drivers and a narrow winding road. Several of our group attended the concert at Ravello in the evening and the rest of us walked up the hill from the hotel to the tiny village of Pogerola, where we had a communal feast at an Irish pub owned by an Italian who also does karaoke.
Sunday, June 7
We were off again to the UNESCO sites of Herculaneum and Pompei. These two sites were the main reason I came on this trip as my major was anthropology/archaeology and I figured this was my one chance to see both areas. The excavated area of Herculaneum is small as this town was destroyed by the volcano mud flow (harder to excavate) and much of it lies under the modern city. It has a very personal aura with rooms and houses and people overcome by the 79 AD Vesuvius eruption in ten minutes. Then we had lunch at a restaurant outside Pompei. The site of Pompei is huge and mostly excavated as the town was covered with ash. Both sites had that eerie feeling of being suspended in time and ordinary people’s efforts to escape disaster.
Monday, June 8
We took the ferry from Amalfi to the Isle of Capri; wonderful to be on the water. Upon arrival we transferred to our own private boat for a trip part way around the Isle. Our journey took us to the White Grotto where we could see the very aqua sea coral that beautifies the water of this region. The famous Blue Grotto is also here but it’s a lengthy visit and our grotto visits were just as good and less crowded. Back to the town of Capri and a bus ride up to Ana Capri. Most of us took the single chairlift ride up to the top of the mountain; the view was amazing. Back down the chairlift to Ana Capri for lunch at an outdoor restaurant. Then off for a tour of the gardens belonging to the former Krupp estate and now part of the city. We all took the funicular (yes, of the song fame) down to Capri and then the boat back to Amalfi. The boat stopped at Positano so we did get to see it from the sea.
Tuesday, June 9
Our tour bus took us the rest of the coastal drive east from Amalfi to Salerno (tour buses are only allowed to drive west-east). We stopped south of Salerno at a mozzarella cheese farm. This farm’s cheese is made from water buffaloes brought many centuries ago by the Estruscans. It takes 7 liters of milk to make one kilo of cheese. These critters have it made; a whirling bristle massage brush on a pole and a huge mud hole in the pasture, plus automated milkers for which the cows stand in line. The cheese was quite tangy and very tasty. Then off to the UNESCO site of Paestum, founded by the Greeks in the 7th century BC. The three temples were absolutely awesome and are well conserved except for the roofs. The site is in the middle of a grassy field and the original town walls can still be seen. Lunch at an on-site restaurant was excellent. We also stopped at the WWII site of the Allied landing at Salerno, now a popular beach.
Wednesday, June 10
Our rescheduled boat trip to Positano was great. Very nice to be on the water again. This town is absolutely in defiance of gravity as it is glued to a very steep hillside. It also has a cathedral of St Mary of the Assumption; beautiful ceilings. Most of the group went shopping but I hiked up the hill to the Church of St Catherine which was closed but worth the view. The boat ride back to Amalfi was quite enjoyable. We had a farewell reception and dinner at the hotel.
Thursday, June 11
We all departed Naples for Munich and subsequent flights to Chicago and elsewhere. There were several different university groups on this trip; each and everyone made it a wonderful experience.
Events
- Around the World by Private Jet - November 1
- Maui Invitational Basketball Tour - November 21
- Maui/Oahu Football Tour - November 29
- The Florida Everglades - December 6
