Bhutan 2007 Trip Diary
Tuesday, October 16
Most travelers congregated at the departure gate for Hong Kong at the Los Angeles International Airport. An AHI representative had a list of group members and made sure that everyone checked in at the correct Cathay Pacific Counter, a welcome little touch. Since we had met several Wisconsin alumni at a dinner previously, there was an instant rapport in a core group that spread to other travelers as well. This helped to shorten the time on the long flight and with redeeming value upon arrival.
Thursday, October 18
Upon arrival in Bangkok’s new airport many hours later we were greeted by an AHI representative who shepherded us through to a waiting bus. Before climbing the bus, two Thai girls in splendid costumes greeted each one of us with a flower lei; again, a nice welcome to the weary travelers. The bus took us to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, a beautiful hotel, located right on the Chao Praya River. There we met our AHI Travel Director, Cara Jacoby, who was with us for the remainder of the trip. She handed us some information about the rest of the day and the next morning, along with a handout on the proper dress code for visiting the Grand Palace and temples.
The evening concluded with a lovely Welcome Reception on a rice barge that floated up and down the river, giving us an idea of the layout of most of the sites we would visit in the following two days. The cool breeze from the river was welcome and we enjoyed generous drinks and appetizers.
The evening concluded with a lovely Welcome Reception on a rice barge that floated up and down the river, giving us an idea of the layout of most of the sites we would visit in the following two days. The cool breeze from the river was welcome and we enjoyed generous drinks and appetizers.
Friday, October 19
For the afternoon, which was left open, I advised several of the travelers of additional sites to visit, and Bob Morrison, Judy Fessenden and I walked through the National Museum. From there through the grounds of Thamasat University down to the Chao Praya River. The river was closed to traffic that afternoon, because practices were to be held for the Royal Barge Procession in honor of the King’s upcoming 80th Birthday. We had wanted to see the barges in the museum, but this was so much more beautiful and totally serendipitous.
In the evening, the Thai Wisconsin Alumni Association arranged a special treat for the Wisconsin travelers and graciously agreed to have other group members join us for the event: a van booked by Mrs. Khemawadee Visessiri, Coordinator of the WAAT and the Wisconsin Alumni Thailand Foundation, took us to the Suan Lum Night Market for a delicious special Thai dinner. The Wisconsin alumni were guests of the association, and while the other group members were prepared to pay for their dinner, the Thais generously expanded their invitation to include them as well. We gave the Thai group presents and all mementos were much appreciated. Nim especially enjoyed her photo book of Madison, which was passed around and brought back many fond memories among the other Thai alums as well. After dinner we took a photo of the group along with our Thai hosts.
Our hosts were: Mr. Visit Tantisoonthorn, Mr.Charin Harnsuebsai, Mrs.Ajarie Visessiri, Mrs.Khemwadee Visessiri and Ms.Kamolthorn Phayakvichien.
Then we attended a performance of a Thai Puppet theater for which Mrs. Visessiri had reserved tickets. This turned out to be a very rare and beautiful cultural event, which left us enchanted. It reminded us a bit of Japanese Bunraku theater, where three puppeteers manipulate the puppets on stage. An orchestra seated at the stage side accompanied the action with charming traditional Thai melodies. Since we had some time left at the end of the evening, we took advantage of the Night Market across the street and purchased lovely silk shawls and blouses and many other souvenirs.
Then we attended a performance of a Thai Puppet theater for which Mrs. Visessiri had reserved tickets. This turned out to be a very rare and beautiful cultural event, which left us enchanted. It reminded us a bit of Japanese Bunraku theater, where three puppeteers manipulate the puppets on stage. An orchestra seated at the stage side accompanied the action with charming traditional Thai melodies. Since we had some time left at the end of the evening, we took advantage of the Night Market across the street and purchased lovely silk shawls and blouses and many other souvenirs.
Saturday, October 20
We started the day with an early morning visit to a local temple where we offered alms to Buddhist monks. It was a very meaningful experience and we thanked our Travel Director for having arranged it. This was followed by another highlight of our stay in Bangkok: a cruise on one of the major canals, the Thonburi Canal. A way of life that is still thriving was revealed to us as we slowly drove past traditional Thai houses on stilts, small temples and farms.
Before returning to the hotel, we visited the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun, and marveled at the beauty the Thai architects created on the temple walls from pottery shards that once had been mere ships’ ballast from China.
The afternoon was free again – and most of us chose to pay for a visit to a pleasant Thai Cultural Show in a village Southwest of Bangkok.
Before returning to the hotel, we visited the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun, and marveled at the beauty the Thai architects created on the temple walls from pottery shards that once had been mere ships’ ballast from China.
The afternoon was free again – and most of us chose to pay for a visit to a pleasant Thai Cultural Show in a village Southwest of Bangkok.
Sunday, October 21
We flew to Bhutan on Druk Airlines, the flight threaded through the mountains of the High and Middle Himalayas and we were greeted by our local Bhutanese guides. We were driven to the Zhiwa Ling Hotel (where we stayed for two nights later in the week) in the Paro Valley. This gave our travelers a first glimpse of this peaceful valley at the height of the rice harvest. People work hard in the fields adjoining the road, but not with big combines, everything is done by hand, from cutting the stalks of rice to bundling them, threshing them and sifting and winnowing. We marveled at the Kyiuchu Lakhang, a Temple built in the 7th century, and now prepared for the Royal Grandmother’s annual Puja ceremonies with colorful prayer flags and bunting all around.
After lunch we departed to Thimphu.
After lunch we departed to Thimphu.
Our Bhutanese guide Karma gave excellent running commentaries throughout our time in Bhutan, in the bus and during meals, he definitely contributed a great deal to making the all too short visit to Bhutan a good experience for our travelers. What usually is a quick ride turned into a long duty and noisy haul, as the entire road from the Paro Airport to the Tashi Dzong in Thimphu was being widened to accommodate the many expected visiting dignitaries for the 2008 Coronation of Bhutan’s 5th King, Jigme Khesar Wangchuck. One of the more disturbing sites was the presence along the road of many migrant workers from India, poor women and men working in road construction gangs, breaking up stones by hand. Our hearts went out to them, but we were told that poor though this life is, it is far better than the abject poverty they face in their own country.
We set out on a first exploratory bus tour of Thimphu and visited a temple high above the city, the Changankha Lhakhang, where a baby-naming ceremony was underway, a very moving celebration. After that we drove to the country’s main Dzong, the Tashichhoe Dzong, seat of the Royal Government and also of the country’s supreme abbot, His Holiness, the Je Khenpo, and the Central Monk Body, the Dratshang.
The hotel had prepared a wonderful dinner for us, and before and during that dinner, we were able to meet with some of our Bhutanese UW alums. His Excellency Yeshey Zimba had been detained in the highlands of Laya and Ghasa, preparing the population of these remote areas for the upcoming first democratic elections to be held in Bhutan. He was chagrined, but sent his son-in-law, a very nice articulate young man in his stead.
We set out on a first exploratory bus tour of Thimphu and visited a temple high above the city, the Changankha Lhakhang, where a baby-naming ceremony was underway, a very moving celebration. After that we drove to the country’s main Dzong, the Tashichhoe Dzong, seat of the Royal Government and also of the country’s supreme abbot, His Holiness, the Je Khenpo, and the Central Monk Body, the Dratshang.
The hotel had prepared a wonderful dinner for us, and before and during that dinner, we were able to meet with some of our Bhutanese UW alums. His Excellency Yeshey Zimba had been detained in the highlands of Laya and Ghasa, preparing the population of these remote areas for the upcoming first democratic elections to be held in Bhutan. He was chagrined, but sent his son-in-law, a very nice articulate young man in his stead.
During dinner I introduced the Bhutanese alums, and each proceeded to tell us what he had studied at UW-Madison, and what he was doing now in Bhutan and how he was using his education to serve King and Country. They also talked about the current political pre-election efforts to establish a democratically elected government in Bhutan and the concept of Bhutan’s goal for development as articulated by the country’s Fourth King, Jigme Namgyel Wangchuk: Gross National Happiness. This translates, among others, to Clean Water, Free Education and Free Healthcare for everyone. It was a very convivial evening, and our travelers very much enjoyed meeting our alums and asking them many questions about themselves and their country.
Monday, October 22
This day was set aside for visiting the main cultural sights of Thimphu: the Memorial Chorten for Bhutan’s Third King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk,in the Tibetan style; the National Library, with the world’s largest book on display; the Choki school of Arts and Crafts, where we watched students, both male and female, learn techniques of the 13 traditional arts and crafts: drawing, painting, calligraphy, embroidery, woodcarving and sculpture among them. The Folk Heritage Museum concluded the morning’s sightseeing.
After lunch, the group went on to visit other sites, such as the National Textile Museum, while I attended to some personal business with Bhutanese friends. I renewed our family’s membership in the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature and inscribed a new member, who believed in and wanted to support the organization’s efforts, Judy Fessenden. I also visited Sherub’s family. Since I am honorary Grandmother to his children, this was a fun event, especially as I came bearing lots of gifts for them. I was sent home with just as many gifts for people back in Madison, beautiful weavings that Sherub’s wife makes on a traditional back strap loom. It was interesting to see how much English the children had learned in elementary school already, so that the conversation was not all one sided.
In the evening, AHI had arranged for the visit of Datong Tulku Rinpoche, the ninth embodiment of a monk to talk to us about Buddhism and some of the major tenets of that faith. Unfortunately he was rather difficult to understand, even though he had a translator with him, and it seemed to most of us that he answered many of our questions only perfunctorily.
After lunch, the group went on to visit other sites, such as the National Textile Museum, while I attended to some personal business with Bhutanese friends. I renewed our family’s membership in the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature and inscribed a new member, who believed in and wanted to support the organization’s efforts, Judy Fessenden. I also visited Sherub’s family. Since I am honorary Grandmother to his children, this was a fun event, especially as I came bearing lots of gifts for them. I was sent home with just as many gifts for people back in Madison, beautiful weavings that Sherub’s wife makes on a traditional back strap loom. It was interesting to see how much English the children had learned in elementary school already, so that the conversation was not all one sided.
In the evening, AHI had arranged for the visit of Datong Tulku Rinpoche, the ninth embodiment of a monk to talk to us about Buddhism and some of the major tenets of that faith. Unfortunately he was rather difficult to understand, even though he had a translator with him, and it seemed to most of us that he answered many of our questions only perfunctorily.
Tuesday, October 23
The morning saw our departure for Paro, and the Taj Tashi hotel management gave each of us a little prayer mill as a good-bye present, a rather charming gesture. They also told us that they were closing the hotel after we left until it was completely finished in 2008. Having had us as guest was a welcome “dry run” for them and the staff.
On the way out of Thimphu we drove past the Simtokha Dzong dating back to 1629 and the times of the Shabdrung, the 17th century unifier of the country. The road also led us to Bhutan’s School of Language and Culture, where AHI had set up a meeting with its Vice Chancellor. He is a most impressive monk, and for many of us this was the most fascinating meeting with a Bhutanese official. His main topic was emphasizing the vital connection between language and culture. In Bhutan, the native language is Dzongkha, a very difficult language derived from Tibetan origins, hard to speak and harder to read and write. He understood the need for teaching English to the school children, so that Bhutan can communicate with the rest of the world, but he doesn’t want to see Dzongkha lost for convenience’s sake, because the country’s identity is tied up intimately with language. With the arrival of television in 1999 and more tourists coming to Bhutan, this will be a difficult road to hoe.
On the way out of Thimphu we drove past the Simtokha Dzong dating back to 1629 and the times of the Shabdrung, the 17th century unifier of the country. The road also led us to Bhutan’s School of Language and Culture, where AHI had set up a meeting with its Vice Chancellor. He is a most impressive monk, and for many of us this was the most fascinating meeting with a Bhutanese official. His main topic was emphasizing the vital connection between language and culture. In Bhutan, the native language is Dzongkha, a very difficult language derived from Tibetan origins, hard to speak and harder to read and write. He understood the need for teaching English to the school children, so that Bhutan can communicate with the rest of the world, but he doesn’t want to see Dzongkha lost for convenience’s sake, because the country’s identity is tied up intimately with language. With the arrival of television in 1999 and more tourists coming to Bhutan, this will be a difficult road to hoe.
On the way out of the Thimphu Valley we also briefly visited the Anim Dratsang Nunnery. After a long, bumpy and dusty ride back to Paro on the road still under construction, we arrived again at the Zhiwa Ling (= Place of Peace) Hotel. Welcome peace did indeed surround us, and after checking in and getting settled, we ventured out into Paro town for sightseeing and shopping, but first we visited Paro’s Dzong, the Rinchen Pung or Rinpung Dzong and crossed over the Paro River on one of the country’s last remaining cantilever bridges.
Wednesday, October 24
The other group members took a bit more leisurely approach to the day and went to the end of the ParoValley, to a famous old dzong, the Drukgyel Dzong, now burnt out, but apparently slated for reconstruction. This was once a major defense outpost against frequent invasions from Tibet. Unfortunately the sky was overcast and we could not see the famous white triangle of snow-covered Mount Jhomolhari, nor any other of the high peaks of the Himalayas.
After lunch we drove to visit Bhutan’s National Museum, which is housed in the watch tower of the Dzong, above the valley. Again our guide Karma provided excellent commentary on the treasures housed in the museum.
In the evening, as a result of “popular demand”, Karma and our AHI Travel Director Cara had invited a traditional musician to perform for us during our Bhutanese farewell dinner. Travelers were very glad to hear some of the sweet songs performed on a kind of hammer dulcimer and a dramyen, a four string guitar.
In the evening, as a result of “popular demand”, Karma and our AHI Travel Director Cara had invited a traditional musician to perform for us during our Bhutanese farewell dinner. Travelers were very glad to hear some of the sweet songs performed on a kind of hammer dulcimer and a dramyen, a four string guitar.
Thursday, October 25
The day brought an early departure for the airport and we had to say a sad goodbye to our local guides and to Bhutan. Everyone agreed and strongly wanted the message to be heard: After experiencing a small, warm and spiritual place like Bhutan, westernized cities with 7 million people are rather jarring. We need more time in Bhutan.
The flight took us to Bangkok, and then on to Hong Kong, where the weary travelers were met late at night by a very upbeat and indefatigable guide Wendy. The bus transferred us to the Marco Polo Hotel, right on the waterfront of Kowloon, near many other famous hotels and sites. Before retiring for the night, Wendy and Cara gave us our instructions for the following morning.
The flight took us to Bangkok, and then on to Hong Kong, where the weary travelers were met late at night by a very upbeat and indefatigable guide Wendy. The bus transferred us to the Marco Polo Hotel, right on the waterfront of Kowloon, near many other famous hotels and sites. Before retiring for the night, Wendy and Cara gave us our instructions for the following morning.
Friday, October 25
After breakfast I found out to my dismay that our Hong Kong Alumni and I had been corresponding eagerly with one another, but had fallen victim to George Bernard Shaw’s dictum on communication, ”the main problem with communication is the assumption that it has taken place.”
While Kim Santiago had written about a meeting for a Dim Sum Luncheon with our Hong Kong alums for Saturday, Oct. 27, Mary and her staff kept on writing about the 26th and when I put in confirming language to that effect it was not noticed that it differed from their ideas. In any event, while all of us travelers [and again this included all the other non-Wisconsin folks as well after I had obtained the Hong Kong chapter’s permission] were prepared to meet the group on Friday, the 26th for the luncheon, while they were under the impression that it was set for Saturday. However, we could not get out of arrangements made for Saturday: trips to Macau for some, Lantau Island for the others.
So after we talked with Mary, we decided to go ahead with the Friday Dim Sum Luncheon at the Serenade Restaurant, 1/F Hong Kong Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui, very near our hotel, and Mary was going to come to our hotel after work at 6:30 pm to meet with as many of us as possible.
While Kim Santiago had written about a meeting for a Dim Sum Luncheon with our Hong Kong alums for Saturday, Oct. 27, Mary and her staff kept on writing about the 26th and when I put in confirming language to that effect it was not noticed that it differed from their ideas. In any event, while all of us travelers [and again this included all the other non-Wisconsin folks as well after I had obtained the Hong Kong chapter’s permission] were prepared to meet the group on Friday, the 26th for the luncheon, while they were under the impression that it was set for Saturday. However, we could not get out of arrangements made for Saturday: trips to Macau for some, Lantau Island for the others.
So after we talked with Mary, we decided to go ahead with the Friday Dim Sum Luncheon at the Serenade Restaurant, 1/F Hong Kong Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui, very near our hotel, and Mary was going to come to our hotel after work at 6:30 pm to meet with as many of us as possible.
A sampan cruise through the “floating village” of Aberdeen was fascinating as we could see a harbor full of traditional boats, surrounded by hundreds of high rises, demonstrating that real estate is a hot commodity in all of Hong Kong.
Then we all “needed” to roam around Stanley Market (Wendy had most thoughtfully supplied us with easy, printed conversion charts for US and Hong Kong dollars, so that shopping was made easy for us!) and purchased the last presents and mementos for loved ones back home.
At 6:30 all Wisconsin alumni congregated in the hotel Lobby to meet with Mary Cheng , group photo opportunities were seized there and later on in the restaurant that Mary took us to. It served Peking style food and we opted for Peking Duck under her guidance and had a most delicious dinner. Mary was extremely gracious about the mix up and was a fascinating dinner guest. Everyone enjoyed hearing her UW stories and about her career path since then. Under Mary’s energetic leadership it turned us into a vibrant organization once again.
Saturday, October 27
As mentioned before, travelers had divergent interests, so Wendy set up trips for some to Macao and some to Lantau Island. The Lantau group visited the beach and a traditional fishing village, where every conceivable sea creature is displayed as dried seafood, even big sharks. An enormous Bronze Buddha statue sits on top of a mountain; we visited the statue and had lunch at a famous vegetarian restaurant, just below the peak. The visit concluded with a multimedia presentation about the Buddha’s Life. Then it was back to the Marco Polo Hotel and a festive Farewell Reception Cruise through Victoria Harbor. We had to say good-bye to some of the travelers who were either staying on in Hong Kong on their own or leaving for other Asian destinations. The harbor was lit as were the buildings on shore and the neon colors were reflected in the water; a laser show goes off every evening at 8 p.m. was a special visual treat as we walked back to our hotel.
Wendy had arranged a last dinner for us in a nearby Szechuan Restaurant; all Wisconsin travelers plus two others from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art enjoyed the delicious dinner in a separate room with the most enormous lazy Susan anyone had ever seen.
Wendy had arranged a last dinner for us in a nearby Szechuan Restaurant; all Wisconsin travelers plus two others from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art enjoyed the delicious dinner in a separate room with the most enormous lazy Susan anyone had ever seen.
Sunday, October 28
After breakfast we left for the airport and the long flight home. We said Good Bye to Cara Jacoby, our AHI Travel Director, and Wendy, who had made a big difference in making this a very successful stay in Hong Kong.
All of us went our separate ways in Los Angeles, but not before we had all exchanged addresses, emails and phone numbers. All expressed hopes for a reunion, which is definitely a possibility for group members who live near Madison.
All of us went our separate ways in Los Angeles, but not before we had all exchanged addresses, emails and phone numbers. All expressed hopes for a reunion, which is definitely a possibility for group members who live near Madison.
Events
- Trans-Siberian Railway by Private Train - June 29
- Black Sea - Istanbul to Athens Cruise - July 7
- Canada Maritimes - July 13
- Ireland - July 14
