Rome Diary 2008

The following is a trip diary by Jann Smith ’71, who traveled to Rome in November 2008 as part of an international travel experience with the Wisconsin Alumni Association.

I went on another Wisconsin alumni trip to Rome November 6-13. I don't know why I was so anxious for another long plane ride after the June trip to Tuscany, but there weren’t any trips to Rome in 2009 so I figured this was the time to go.

My Sicily 2006 and Tuscany 2008 trips were “alumni campus abroad” trips; lectures every morning, then an excursion to an interesting town, lunch at a local restaurant, free time, and then back to the hotel; 3 meals/day included. The Rome trip was an “Escapade” trip; a few lectures, one scheduled excursion, optional excursions (extra $), 1 meal/day (breakfast) and lots of free time. This latter type of trip is more work for the traveler to get prepared as to their sight-seeing agenda. I studied the Rick Steve’s Rome and AAA Rome books for 3 months; planned it all according to the neighborhoods of Rome, which worked well most of the time.

Drove to Atlanta (one of the designated departure cities) and stayed with my cousin, who has been marvelous for years at hosting me coming/going on adventures. There is a MARTA (metro) station near her house that goes directly to the airport (about 40-minute ride).

WAA uses Lufthansa Airlines almost exclusively; they're great; all included; no forking out $5 for this and that. I flew out about 6 p.m. and was fortunate not to have a seat partner, so I did get some sleep.

Got to Frankfurt about 9 a.m. and departed for Rome about 11 a.m., arriving at 1:30 p.m. All the groups from other cities also connected in Frankfurt so we were on the same flight to Rome. We were met there by the travel director and proceeded by bus to north Rome and the hotel.

The Grand Hotel Parco dei Principi is a 5-star luxurious hotel very near the Borghese Gallery and Via Veneto. The director took us for an orientation walk late afternoon and then we had a welcome reception.

There were 37 people on this trip: 16 from the University of Illinois, 12 from
Notre Dame, and nine from the University of Wisconsin. Many alumni trips combine schools on these trips to have enough folks.

Morning excursion (included) to St Peter’s Basilica and square (across the Tiber River). The basilica is quite awesome (done by Michelangelo). There have been many basilicas on this site and the current one was started in 1506 and built with 2500 wagonloads of stones from the Colosseum. Afterward, we went to the Piazza Navona back in Rome proper for lunch and to see the Fountain of the 4 Rivers (Bernini). This was the only time we got rained on; it poured, but I was in a pizzeria. In the afternoon, we went on the excursion (extra) to the Colosseum and the Forum; the former is a shell remnant of its structural glory but very interesting; not much left of Caesar’s Forum.

One has to make reservations to go to the Borghese Gallery and I had done that beforehand. Here I bought a Roma Pass for about $25, which got me in free or discounted to the rest of the places I visited.

(1) Went there at 9 a.m.; they let people in every 2 hours. This old building houses one of the finest art collections by the Borghese Cardinals, including Bernini’s David and sculptures/painting by Canova, Raphael, and Caravaggio. Quite overwhelming.

2) Then I went down to the Spanish Steps and walked the famous Via del Corso (shops) to the church of Santa Maria di Maggiore. This huge 5th century church was built on the site of a temple to Juno. The immense coffered ceiling was gilded with the first gold brought back from the New World. There was a Mass being celebrated which added to the atmosphere.

(3) Next on to the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, one of four branches of the National Museum of Rome that contains the world’s greatest collection of ancient Roman art, including rare frescos removed from sites in the city and therefore saved.

(4) Next across the street to the Baths of Diocletian (public Roman baths in the old days), where the cloister was designed by Michelangelo. Not much left of the baths but a good museum.

(5) Around the corner to the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, whose Basilica was also done by Michelangelo. He incorporated the church design to connect with the ruins of the baths and one can see the old walls from inside the church.

(6) Next to the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, small but very Baroque gilded and inside is Bernini’s statue of St. Teresa (famous).

7) Back thru the Piazza del Republica and up Via Veneto to the hotel. The main reason for going to churches is that’s where the art is.

(1) Walked thru the Borghese gardens near the hotel to the Piazza del Popolo and from there to the Trevi Fountain where I tossed some coins to ensure my return to Rome.

(2) Next to the Pantheon, a 2nd century church built by Hadrian; in remarkably good shape mainly because it became a Christian church in the 7th century. The dome has a cupola open to the sky; when it rains, the water drains thru microscopic holes in the floor. The outside of the dome could use some TLC as there are small trees growing through its head.

(3) Over the Tiber River again as I had reservations at 1:45 p.m. for the tour of the 1940s excavations under St. Peter’s. I found out about this purely by chance from a friend who works for Historic Deerfield, Mass. One has to email the Vatican and request a day for a tour. They email back with the day and time; you have 10 days to call them with your credit card number to confirm the reservation.

Peter was crucified to the left of the current Baslica, buried, and later removed to under the current altar (12 meters down). The Basilica property used to be a Roman pagan necropolis (city of the dead). Constantine made the Romans remove their dead and he filled in the houses with dirt and put St. Peter’s on top. In the 1940s, the Church decided to find St. Peter’s tomb and started excavating; they found him in 1950 and stopped. The excavation tour takes one underground in the city of the dead (the houses painted walls and frescoes are as bright as when they were done) and to the tomb. One exits inside the Basilica; a very excellent tour and the highlight of the trip.

(4) I then climbed the dome of St. Peter’s (took the elevator the first 300 steps and climbed the 251 left); one comes out inside the dome way up there and then winds around a path and narrow stairs to the roof for a great view of Rome. As there was a bus strike that day; had to walk back to the hotel (1-1/2 hours) via the Piazza del Popolo.

(1) Back to the Piazza Navona to get to the Palazzo Altemps (national museum), a Renaissance palace owned by a Cardinal who also collected art. The two-story building has an inner courtyard and the rooms house some of the finest Roman sculpture. The ceilings in these rooms are painted; quite the fantastic museum.

(2) From there across the Tiber to the Castel Sant’Angelo, Hadrian's tomb that was later fortified and was the Papal residence for centuries. This fortress also had lots of art, old weapons, etc., and I spent three hours there; very neat place; had lunch at the cafe looking at the back of St. Peter’s. One can also go on the roof for more fine views.

(3) Back across the Tiber to a small museum, Ara Pacis, the site of Augustus Caesar’s temple to peace, which houses ancient bas reliefs found nowhere else. His burial mound is across the street, is in disrepair but is being excavated.

(4) Went back to the Spanish Steps and had a very expensive glass of wine at one of the rooftop cafes to watch the sunset. Back thru the park to the hotel.

Took it easy and roamed the Via Veneto where the famous Harry’s Bar is located. Went on the afternoon excursion (extra) to the Vatican museums and the Sistine Chapel. The Vatican also has art collections unrivaled and many painted rooms and ceilings. The Sistine Chapel is extraordinary and amazing that Michelangelo did it in four years. We were in there about 4 p.m. so the light wasn’t that great as it had rained, but marvelous anyway. Back to the hotel for the farewell reception. Had several meals at a neighborhood restaurant with two couples from Chicago; they were great fun and made the trip extra enjoyable.

Eleven of us left the hotel at 4:30 a.m. on a bus for the airport. When we got there, a line was from the counter all the way to the front doors. Our flight to Frankfurt was at 6:50 a.m. and we waited in the line until 5:20 a.m., then through security and barely made the plane. Not a good way to start the day. A couple from Fort Lauderdale was also on this trip and flying through Atlanta so we kept each other company on the long trip back. Got to Atlanta about 4:30 p.m., through customs, etc., and my cousin picked me up about 6 p.m.

Drove home; nice to be back. A very wonderful and hectic trip. Arriverdici Roma!