Baja 2008 Trip Diary
Baja California: Among the Great Whales
National Geographic Sea Lion
January 12-19, 2008
By Jessika Kasten
National Geographic Sea Lion
January 12-19, 2008
By Jessika Kasten
Saturday, January 12, 2008
We began the day in Los Angeles, gathering in LAX to take our charter plane down to La Paz. There were about 120 people on the charter, as we had both the passengers from the Sea Lion and the Sea Bird on the plane. Our group would be traveling on the Sea Lion, which began its journey on the Gulf side of the peninsula and ended on the Pacific side (the Sea Bird does exactly the opposite route). Once on the charter, it was about a one-hour and 45-minute flight to La Paz. As you can imagine, the La Paz airport was quite small, so we were the only group they had to get through customs, which went pretty smooth. At this point the Sea Lion and Sea Bird groups split up and got on our respective buses to embark on the ships. It was only about a 30-minute bus ride for us, as we boarded in La Paz. There was a lot of excitement as we boarded the ship for the first time – we all knew that we were going to be in for an amazing journey. That evening, Lindblad hosted a welcome reception where they introduced all of the staff and naturalists aboard the ship. I was amazed at the breadth of knowledge the staff had – and everyone seemed quite friendly and helpful. We ate dinner that evening and then most people headed to their cabins for the evening. I noticed that the moon had gone down under the horizon, so it was quite dark and a little cool. We traveled through the night to our first destination.
We began the day in Los Angeles, gathering in LAX to take our charter plane down to La Paz. There were about 120 people on the charter, as we had both the passengers from the Sea Lion and the Sea Bird on the plane. Our group would be traveling on the Sea Lion, which began its journey on the Gulf side of the peninsula and ended on the Pacific side (the Sea Bird does exactly the opposite route). Once on the charter, it was about a one-hour and 45-minute flight to La Paz. As you can imagine, the La Paz airport was quite small, so we were the only group they had to get through customs, which went pretty smooth. At this point the Sea Lion and Sea Bird groups split up and got on our respective buses to embark on the ships. It was only about a 30-minute bus ride for us, as we boarded in La Paz. There was a lot of excitement as we boarded the ship for the first time – we all knew that we were going to be in for an amazing journey. That evening, Lindblad hosted a welcome reception where they introduced all of the staff and naturalists aboard the ship. I was amazed at the breadth of knowledge the staff had – and everyone seemed quite friendly and helpful. We ate dinner that evening and then most people headed to their cabins for the evening. I noticed that the moon had gone down under the horizon, so it was quite dark and a little cool. We traveled through the night to our first destination.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Some of us began the day with a morning stretch class at sunrise given by the wellness coordinator on the ship. What a great way to start our first day! After breakfast and the mandatory safety drill, we made our first landing on Isla San Jose for some desert hiking opportunities. There were options on what type of hike you’d like to take, and I chose to go on the long, interpretive hike with one of the naturalists, which was about two miles round-trip. We did get to walk through one of the slot canyons, which was really a treat. After lunch, we were in for more activity. Everyone had the option of snorkeling, kayaking or both (of course, you can always just stay on the ship and relax). I chose to do both! We started with snorkeling – and luckily they provided us with wet suits because the water was only 63 degrees! Refreshing to say the least! After drying off and warming up, we did a little kayaking in Half Moon Bay. Sea kayaking was very relaxing, and much easier than being in a canoe. I’m really glad I tried it – it was my first time. We headed back, got cleaned up and then went down for dinner. After such an active day in the sun, we were all ready for bed as soon as desert was served. Last night took a little time getting used to sleeping on a rocking boat (it was my first cruise), but tonight we were anchored and I’ve never slept better.
Some of us began the day with a morning stretch class at sunrise given by the wellness coordinator on the ship. What a great way to start our first day! After breakfast and the mandatory safety drill, we made our first landing on Isla San Jose for some desert hiking opportunities. There were options on what type of hike you’d like to take, and I chose to go on the long, interpretive hike with one of the naturalists, which was about two miles round-trip. We did get to walk through one of the slot canyons, which was really a treat. After lunch, we were in for more activity. Everyone had the option of snorkeling, kayaking or both (of course, you can always just stay on the ship and relax). I chose to do both! We started with snorkeling – and luckily they provided us with wet suits because the water was only 63 degrees! Refreshing to say the least! After drying off and warming up, we did a little kayaking in Half Moon Bay. Sea kayaking was very relaxing, and much easier than being in a canoe. I’m really glad I tried it – it was my first time. We headed back, got cleaned up and then went down for dinner. After such an active day in the sun, we were all ready for bed as soon as desert was served. Last night took a little time getting used to sleeping on a rocking boat (it was my first cruise), but tonight we were anchored and I’ve never slept better.
Monday, January 14, 2008
We began the morning with a stretching class again, but this time it was to the sound of California Sea Lions barking on Los Islotes. It was a very windy day, so we weren’t able to do the zodiac tours and snorkeling with the sea lions, but our captain was able to get our ship very close to the haul-out, so we still had a great view of hundreds of sea lions on the rocks. After our time with the sea lions, we moved on and had the options to go on hikes up Isla Partida. I chose to do the exercise walk this time, and we climbed about 600 feet up rocks to the crest to the view of the other side of the island. The hike was difficult, as we had to climb up small boulders and balance walking on rocks the entire way – but the payoff at the top was worth it: a beautiful view of the very blue ocean and gorgeous shoreline. After the long hike (about three hours round trip), I took the afternoon off and relaxed with a good book in the sun. Dinner was very special this evening as we had a beach barbecue. Everyone was transported to a small, insulated beach via Zodiac where we ate dinner and had a bonfire – with s’mores! It was still quite windy, so when we took our UW group photo on the beach, you’ll notice we all look like we’re dressed for the artic, not Baja! It was a lot of fun, nonetheless. After we were back aboard the ship, many people relaxed in the lounge before heading off to bed. It was so much fun getting to know the travelers in our group (there were eight couples that traveled with WAA). Many of them were avid travelers, so it was fun to hear their stories of past vacation memories.
We began the morning with a stretching class again, but this time it was to the sound of California Sea Lions barking on Los Islotes. It was a very windy day, so we weren’t able to do the zodiac tours and snorkeling with the sea lions, but our captain was able to get our ship very close to the haul-out, so we still had a great view of hundreds of sea lions on the rocks. After our time with the sea lions, we moved on and had the options to go on hikes up Isla Partida. I chose to do the exercise walk this time, and we climbed about 600 feet up rocks to the crest to the view of the other side of the island. The hike was difficult, as we had to climb up small boulders and balance walking on rocks the entire way – but the payoff at the top was worth it: a beautiful view of the very blue ocean and gorgeous shoreline. After the long hike (about three hours round trip), I took the afternoon off and relaxed with a good book in the sun. Dinner was very special this evening as we had a beach barbecue. Everyone was transported to a small, insulated beach via Zodiac where we ate dinner and had a bonfire – with s’mores! It was still quite windy, so when we took our UW group photo on the beach, you’ll notice we all look like we’re dressed for the artic, not Baja! It was a lot of fun, nonetheless. After we were back aboard the ship, many people relaxed in the lounge before heading off to bed. It was so much fun getting to know the travelers in our group (there were eight couples that traveled with WAA). Many of them were avid travelers, so it was fun to hear their stories of past vacation memories.
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
We had an early wake-up call today, but no one could complain as we had our first sighting of humpback whales – a mom and her baby calf. Everyone was gathered at the front of the ship as we followed the whales and watched them breach and blow. Stretch class still happened, but just in a little different format at the front of the ship so everyone could see the whales and get in their morning exercise. As the ship continued on, we saw a group of about 50 dolphins, many of which were very close to our ship. I’d never seen that many dolphins in one place. They were so beautiful and graceful as they raced with the ship. Before lunch, I took advantage of the LexSpa and got a massage – which I’d highly recommend! After lunch, we docked at Cabo San Lucas. We had the option of snorkeling at Playa Chilenos, going on a trip into San Jose del Cabo (a city a little less “touristy” than Cabo San Lucas), or of course walking around Cabo. I chose to go snorkeling again, as this would be our last opportunity to do so. The water was a little warmer this time, and we saw many different, brightly-colored fish. After snorkeling, we had a little time to explore Cabo before departing. We left just in time to see a sunset view of the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, and the famous arch at Land’s End. It was beautiful! There were two men in a little speed boat trying to get our attention by yelling and playing music, but nothing could ruin the gorgeous view.
We had an early wake-up call today, but no one could complain as we had our first sighting of humpback whales – a mom and her baby calf. Everyone was gathered at the front of the ship as we followed the whales and watched them breach and blow. Stretch class still happened, but just in a little different format at the front of the ship so everyone could see the whales and get in their morning exercise. As the ship continued on, we saw a group of about 50 dolphins, many of which were very close to our ship. I’d never seen that many dolphins in one place. They were so beautiful and graceful as they raced with the ship. Before lunch, I took advantage of the LexSpa and got a massage – which I’d highly recommend! After lunch, we docked at Cabo San Lucas. We had the option of snorkeling at Playa Chilenos, going on a trip into San Jose del Cabo (a city a little less “touristy” than Cabo San Lucas), or of course walking around Cabo. I chose to go snorkeling again, as this would be our last opportunity to do so. The water was a little warmer this time, and we saw many different, brightly-colored fish. After snorkeling, we had a little time to explore Cabo before departing. We left just in time to see a sunset view of the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, and the famous arch at Land’s End. It was beautiful! There were two men in a little speed boat trying to get our attention by yelling and playing music, but nothing could ruin the gorgeous view.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Today was the only day I skipped stretching because it was quite cold in the morning. We saw our first whale in the morning as we approached Magdelena Bay. Many people spent much of the day on the top deck sunning, reading, relaxing and looking at the vibrant mangroves and green vegetation surrounding us. After lunch, we anchored and Zodiac boats took us over to hike across Isla Magdalena’s magnificent sand dunes. After a half-mile hike, we reached the Pacific side of the island where some went swimming (too cold for me!), and many walked the shore of the pristine Sand Dollar Beach. The sand on the beach was some of the finest and softest sand I’ve seen. After lunch, one of the naturalists did a presentation on plate tectonics, and then each of the school groups (UW and Princeton) hosted a cocktail reception. After dinner, we had a special presentation by one of the naturalists who was on one of the rescue ships when The Explorer went down off the Alaskan coast in November 2007. It was an amazing, sad story. All the passengers were fine, but it was just sad to learn the pioneering history of the ship and to see the pictures and video of it sinking. It was so nice of him to share that difficult experience with us.
Today was the only day I skipped stretching because it was quite cold in the morning. We saw our first whale in the morning as we approached Magdelena Bay. Many people spent much of the day on the top deck sunning, reading, relaxing and looking at the vibrant mangroves and green vegetation surrounding us. After lunch, we anchored and Zodiac boats took us over to hike across Isla Magdalena’s magnificent sand dunes. After a half-mile hike, we reached the Pacific side of the island where some went swimming (too cold for me!), and many walked the shore of the pristine Sand Dollar Beach. The sand on the beach was some of the finest and softest sand I’ve seen. After lunch, one of the naturalists did a presentation on plate tectonics, and then each of the school groups (UW and Princeton) hosted a cocktail reception. After dinner, we had a special presentation by one of the naturalists who was on one of the rescue ships when The Explorer went down off the Alaskan coast in November 2007. It was an amazing, sad story. All the passengers were fine, but it was just sad to learn the pioneering history of the ship and to see the pictures and video of it sinking. It was so nice of him to share that difficult experience with us.
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Today we spent the entire day out on Zodiacs searching for gray whales of Bahia Magdalena. I went out on the second and third rounds of cruises today, and even though we didn’t see any gray whales, it was a great experience. We saw dolphins that seemed to be scratching themselves on the sandy beach – something even our naturalist said she’d never seen before. There were some lucky souls that got to see whales when out on the Zodiacs – the fourth cruise. I was glad to hear that some of our travelers were on that round, so they could report back their “fish stories.” Those of us not out on the Zodiacs were still able to see the large blows from the whales, so not all wwas lost. Each cruise was with a naturalist, as well as a local whale-watching guide, which was a nice addition to our tour. That evening, before dinner, some local musicians came aboard and entertained us with some authentic Mexican music.
Today we spent the entire day out on Zodiacs searching for gray whales of Bahia Magdalena. I went out on the second and third rounds of cruises today, and even though we didn’t see any gray whales, it was a great experience. We saw dolphins that seemed to be scratching themselves on the sandy beach – something even our naturalist said she’d never seen before. There were some lucky souls that got to see whales when out on the Zodiacs – the fourth cruise. I was glad to hear that some of our travelers were on that round, so they could report back their “fish stories.” Those of us not out on the Zodiacs were still able to see the large blows from the whales, so not all wwas lost. Each cruise was with a naturalist, as well as a local whale-watching guide, which was a nice addition to our tour. That evening, before dinner, some local musicians came aboard and entertained us with some authentic Mexican music.
Friday, January 18, 2008
Our last full day at sea … cruising through the Hull Canal. We had the option of taking a Zodiac tour through the mangroves or our last chance to do more sea kayaking. I chose the Zodiac tour (maybe I was getting a little lazy toward the end ☺), but I think it was a good choice. We were able to get back into the channels of the mangroves before the tide went out, and even spotted a very rare bird – the mangrove warbler. We saw a lot of other birds during the tour and also took note about how quiet it was back in the channels. It was such a neat experience to be so close to nature that was virtually untouched by man. That afternoon we went back to La Encantrada – the spot where we saw our first humpback whale. Luckily, there were whales still there, so we did a little bit of “whale-chasing” – staying comfortably far away, of course. Lindblad has such a great stance on giving people the opportunity to get close to nature, but not so close that it disrupts the wildlife or vegetation. Their motto for travelers is “Take only pictures, leave only footprints.” That evening we had our farewell dinner, and we realized that our adventure was truly coming to an end. We headed to bed a little early, because we knew we had a very early morning and long day ahead the next day.
Our last full day at sea … cruising through the Hull Canal. We had the option of taking a Zodiac tour through the mangroves or our last chance to do more sea kayaking. I chose the Zodiac tour (maybe I was getting a little lazy toward the end ☺), but I think it was a good choice. We were able to get back into the channels of the mangroves before the tide went out, and even spotted a very rare bird – the mangrove warbler. We saw a lot of other birds during the tour and also took note about how quiet it was back in the channels. It was such a neat experience to be so close to nature that was virtually untouched by man. That afternoon we went back to La Encantrada – the spot where we saw our first humpback whale. Luckily, there were whales still there, so we did a little bit of “whale-chasing” – staying comfortably far away, of course. Lindblad has such a great stance on giving people the opportunity to get close to nature, but not so close that it disrupts the wildlife or vegetation. Their motto for travelers is “Take only pictures, leave only footprints.” That evening we had our farewell dinner, and we realized that our adventure was truly coming to an end. We headed to bed a little early, because we knew we had a very early morning and long day ahead the next day.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Our wake-up call was at 5 a.m. this morning, as we had to disembark at 6:30 a.m. for our coach trip across the peninsula to the La Paz airport. It was about a three-hour drive from our dock to the airport, and most people used the time to catch up on a little sleep they missed earlier that morning. It also gave us a chance to reflect on the amazing week we just had. We saw spectacular views, rarely seen wildlife and vegetation, and all while becoming close to our fellow travelers. By the end of the trip, most people knew everyone’s name on the ship and felt like they had known them much longer than just a week. It’s hard to say what my favorite part of the trip was. It was all so surreal to me, as I did so many things for the first time during the tour. I really appreciated the gracious and knowledgeable Lindblad staff. If you ever had a question about anything during the trip, they were always there to give you an answer. And it was great to get to know them too – what interesting lives and stories they had to share. Although we may not have seen as many whales “up-close” as we would have liked, I would give this trip the highest rating possible and recommend it to anyone thinking of exploring this amazing area. I guess it’s time to start saving for a Lindblad/National Geographic trip to Alaska to see the whales at the other side of their annual migration. I just hope my travelers had as an amazing time as I did. I know that experiencing everything with my new friends made it that much more special. On Wisconsin!
Our wake-up call was at 5 a.m. this morning, as we had to disembark at 6:30 a.m. for our coach trip across the peninsula to the La Paz airport. It was about a three-hour drive from our dock to the airport, and most people used the time to catch up on a little sleep they missed earlier that morning. It also gave us a chance to reflect on the amazing week we just had. We saw spectacular views, rarely seen wildlife and vegetation, and all while becoming close to our fellow travelers. By the end of the trip, most people knew everyone’s name on the ship and felt like they had known them much longer than just a week. It’s hard to say what my favorite part of the trip was. It was all so surreal to me, as I did so many things for the first time during the tour. I really appreciated the gracious and knowledgeable Lindblad staff. If you ever had a question about anything during the trip, they were always there to give you an answer. And it was great to get to know them too – what interesting lives and stories they had to share. Although we may not have seen as many whales “up-close” as we would have liked, I would give this trip the highest rating possible and recommend it to anyone thinking of exploring this amazing area. I guess it’s time to start saving for a Lindblad/National Geographic trip to Alaska to see the whales at the other side of their annual migration. I just hope my travelers had as an amazing time as I did. I know that experiencing everything with my new friends made it that much more special. On Wisconsin!
Events
- New England Rails and Sails - October 2
- China - October 8
- Treasures of Italy - October 9
- Around the World - November 4
