More recently, the fungus has caught the attention of gourmet magazines such as Bon Appétit, which has published recipes that call for it.
“Not many people know about this product, but when they taste it, they love it,” says Martin Hernandez, a graduate student in development studies.
Hernandez is working on a strategy to market huitlacoche through restaurants and ethnic grocery stores around Madison, a project that grew from the UW’s involvement with the five-acre community-supported farm at Troy Gardens, on Madison’s north side. University researchers have been helping farmers there identify high-value products that they can grow and sell, and huitlacoche may fit the bill, Zepeda says.
“If you look at the global gourmet food world, every chef likes putting their mark on things,” she says. “I’ve seen [huitlacoche] with crepes, in lasagna. You could use it in Chinese food. It goes very well with mild cheeses.”
Zepeda says that fresh huitlacoche sells in Florida for twenty dollars per pound. Around Madison, consumers are willing to pay less than half that amount. But Hernandez is optimistic, in part because the city’s Mexican-American population is growing rapidly. Additionally, most local groceries sell only canned huitlacoche, which Zepeda says tastes nothing like the fresh variety. “There’s no texture,” she says.