While studying there in 2004, I ate three meals a day, like all Mountain School students, in the dirt-floored kitchen of a local family. On my first evening in Nuevo San José, Haanen took my fellow students and me through the village and introduced us to our host señoras. Before I could say more than a nervous “Buenas tardes” to Victoria, my host, six of her seven children pulled me by the hands into a ring-around-the-rosy-like song and dance with words that I couldn’t decipher. As we circled around the room next to a pile of unshelled ears of corn almost as tall as me, I smelled corn tortillas cooking on a wood-fired stove. Before long, Victoria’s oldest daughter, Claudia, told me to have a seat in one of two plastic chairs pulled up to a wobbly-looking plastic table in the kitchen. Another daughter, Martha, set an overflowing bowl of refried black beans and rice in front of me to eat with a pile of warm, mealy tortillas.
During the following week, I looked forward to every meal with Victoria and her children, who played soccer with me in the dirt path beside their house and asked me to borrow books from the Mountain School to read aloud to them every day. One evening before dinner, Victoria’s husband, Felix — who was gone half the week working at a gas station in a town an hour away by bus — gave me a tour of the village, showing me the community’s new two-room school, its coffee and banana fields, and its meeting place: a sheet-metal structure open on one side and supported by poles.